VIKTORIA MARCHEV

What's your process for designing a new collection?
In the initial stages, there is a considerable degree of invisibility. I engage in prolonged contemplation and meditation, allowing thoughts to percolate. Typically, it takes a couple of months for me to crystallize the general concept, absorbing various influences and shaping ideas into tangible garments. As an emerging designer, my ambitious goal is to unveil two collections annually. Even if both are not executed for various reasons, I persist in mentally conceiving and designing them. It's accurate to say that I invest approximately half a year in envisioning a collection, unless a concept has been germinating in my mind for years. The genesis of my next collection often occurs while I am immersed in the creation of the current one. As I leverage developed technologies and confront challenges, the distinction between collections blurs; they become integral components of a broader design process, broken down into smaller units. Most of my design work takes place in my mind, and just before translating ideas into garments, I jot down key points and create brief sketches. The implementation itself is relatively swift and straightforward, given the extensive mental groundwork I've undertaken over the preceding months.

What's your favorite material to work with?
Silicone rubber has been my material of choice for experimentation and design since 2014. Over the years, I've crafted various collections, including the latest one, 'PINK FLOW' for S/S2023, now available at DOORS. Initially, I began my journey in swimwear design using traditional fabrics. However, I yearned for flexibility with a firm hold, and silicone rubber, known for its high stretchability, allowed me to achieve just that. The ability to control the garment's thickness gave me the power to determine the level of hold. What captivates me most about working with silicone rubber is the freedom to individually color each garment, providing a unique touch to every piece. Furthermore, the material's versatility enables me to create custom patterns, even experimenting with 3D designs. Its smooth and slippery surface lends itself to crafting clean and futuristic designs, aligning perfectly with my creative vision. Prior to incorporating silicone rubber into my designs, I experimented with more traditional, unique, and expensive fabrics. The frustration of wasting significant amounts of precious material during the cutting process pushed me to seek an alternative. Collecting and repurposing fabric scraps proved challenging and not entirely satisfactory. Determined to minimize waste and utilize only the necessary amount of "fabric," I discovered the liquid nature of silicone rubber, allowing me to pour precisely what I needed. While this wasn't the sole reason for adopting this material, it remains a feature I cherish in my creative process.

How do you choose colors for your designs?
I intentionally maintain a minimalistic approach in my designs. While I occasionally incorporate a splash of colors, restricting the color palette enables me to establish cohesion within my collections. Black, white, and transparent (utilizing silicone for a see-through effect) serve as my foundational colors, akin to a blank canvas. Depending on the overarching concept for a given collection, I typically introduce, at most, one or two bold colors.

What's your favorite type of clothing to design?
Swimwear was my starting point, and it continues to be a core element of my work. However, I constantly push my boundaries by creating a diverse range of looks. This includes crafting expansive dresses from silicone and hand-crocheting dresses using oversized wool yarns, both of which have gained significant popularity. In a previous collection, I introduced a more delicate crinoline dress to add variety. In my 10th Anniversary collection last year, I showcased numerous suit-inspired looks, building on the foundation laid by my CAMOUFLAGE collection, where I incorporated menswear into my designs. Yet, I believe no collection of mine is truly complete without one or two signature pieces.

What's your favorite fashion city?
New York.